Notes:
Wave height is determined using zero-crossing analysis of the surface water elevation. The wave module is sampling once an hour for 20 minutes at 4 Hz (4 samples per second).
The significant wave height is the average height of the highest one third of the waves. The maximum wave height is the maximum observed wave height during the sampling period.
The significant wave period is the average period of the significant wave height. The peak wave period is the period of the waves with the most energy over the sampling interval.
The mean direction is the overall direction FROM which the wave field is traveling. The mean spread is the variability in degrees of the mean direction